Silent Sunday

Silent Sunday

This was taken in front of St. Paul's Cathedral in London!

Silent Sunday

Tower Bridge, London.

London Wrap-up

This post will be my final one about London but never fear, I still have Cambridge, Wales & Paris to write about!

I'd like to start by thanking Stephen for establishing the Bury My Sister at St. Paul's Fund. I'm sure you've all sent in this month's contribution. St. Paul's is an incredibily amazing place & if you've been there or ever go I think you'll understand why I'd want to be buried inside. I'm not even going to try & describe it. I spent a lot of the time we were there just sitting & staring (probably w/my mouth hanging open which explains why people looked at me funny). Prince Charles & Princess Diana were married in St. Paul's. Personally I think it takes a lot of nerve to be married in St. Paul's Cathedral and then get divorced. I guess some people just like living dangerously.

We did indeed spend some time at The British Library. My fingerprints are permanently embedded in the case where the letter written by Elizabeth I was displayed. Other highlights included the Victoria & Albert Museum, the National Portrait Gallery, Harrods, and Hampton Court Palace.

Hampton Court was completed in 1521 by Cardinal Wolsey. Wolsey rose from humble origins (I like that phrase) to become Lord Chancellor and Cardinal under Henry VIII. For many years he enjoyed nearly unlimited power. Unfortunately for Wolsey, Henry began to rely on him to accomplish the impossible and when Henry decided to divorce his first wife, Catherine of Aragon, and marry Anne Boleyn, he expected Wolsey to make the divorce happen. Not so easy. Wolsey was caught between an adamant and increasingly petulant king and a pope who was the prisoner of Catherine's nephew, the Holy Roman Emperor Charles V. To make a long story short, Wolsey fell from power and was accused of treason. He died on his way to London to stand trial. In the play Henry VIII, Shakespeare has Wolsey say, Had I but serv’d my God with half the zeal I serv’d my king, He would not in mine age Have left me naked to mine enemies. That has always struck me as a fitting epitaph. Like many of those who served the Tudor rulers, he reaped a reward that was far less than he deserved.

As usual I got a bit off the subject of describing our visit to Hampton Court. It is really an amazing place. The kitchen area is vast and standing in it you can just imagine a 16th century meal being prepared. There is also a maze out in the garden which was fun to walk through (except that I was freezing). The other really neat thing about Hampton Court is that it contains a Landmark Trust apartment that can be rented for short-term visits. Guess where I want to stay next time!

I don't really know how to summarize my visit to London. I was afraid that after wanting to go for such a very long time that it wouldn't be everything I expected. I was right - it was far, far more than I ever envisioned. I find it difficult to imagine people living their everyday lives in the midst of so much history. They just walk along the street as if it is nothing that the Tower of London is a few blocks away! I feel like people should want to touch me reverently because I've been in London. Samuel Johnson said, "When a man is tired of London, he is tired of life; for there is in London all that life can afford." I can't improve on that.

Robin

Westminster Abbey

On a bitterly cold December day in London we went to Westminster Abbey. I should point out that ALL the days we were there were bitterly cold. I have never in my life been so cold and even the miles and miles and miles of walking I did failed to warm me up. Lest you think that weather-wise I'm just a spoiled SF Bay Area person, bear in mind that my traveling companions have lived in some extremely cold places & even they were freezing! Here is a picture of me freezing.

Westminster Abbey is where nearly every English monarch has been crowned since 1066. The present church was begun by Henry III in 1245 and is the final resting place of 17 monarchs. The most important monarch buried here is Elizabeth I. Since you can't take pictures inside the Abbey, I don't have any of her tomb to post but if you click on her name it will take you to a picture on the internet. Elizabeth's sister, Mary Tudor, is also buried in the same tomb. The following inscription is on the floor near the tomb: “Near the tomb of Mary and Elizabeth remember before God all those who divided at the Reformation by different convictions laid down their lives for Christ and conscience’ sake."

Mary Tudor (aka Bloody Mary) was a fervent Catholic, completely unwilling to compromise on the question of religious preference. Before being to critical of her, be aware that most people in that time (as in all times throughout history) were unwilling to compromise. After the death of her brother, Edward VI, Mary wrested the throne from the 9-day pretender, Lady Jane Grey. At first she was a popular choice but by the end of her 5 year reign, even many Catholics were unhappy with her. Throughout Mary's reign Elizabeth's life was at risk. She served as a rallying point for Protestants and unhappy Catholics who wanted to get rid of Mary. Definitely a follower of the Protestant religion, Elizabeth had a highly practical streak and would attend Mass. She was reputed to have said that England was worth a Mass. I'm sure she also felt her head was worth it. Mary had many reasons for wanting Elizabeth out of the way but fortunately never took the final step of having her executed.

Westminster Abbey contains many other tombs and treasures. The Coronation Chair where English monarchs are crowned is there. I tried to sit in it but some guards hustled me out. Actually it is roped off but you can see grafitti on it. I guess that's why they don't let you touch it!

Aside from Elizabeth's tomb - which I did not want to leave - the part of the Abbey I liked best was Poets' Corner. Some of the people buried or memorialized there include, W.H. Auden, Rudyard Kipling, Dylan Thomas, Shakespeare, William Blake, John Dryden, Lord Byron, Jane Austen, and Charles Dickens. I could continue but I think you're getting the idea.